One of the great challenges to selling a home can be showing all of its space, decor and natural light potential. For example, every home has crowded closets and dead space. Sellers should be aware that areas such as these are easy to spruce-up with a little elbow grease and old-fashioned innovation.

Begin by evaluating your closet/storage space, determine which areas can cut-down in clutter. Go through old clothes, shoes, etc., and get rid of anything that will not be used and in turn create more space. Consider organizing shelves and other areas to make better use of your storage space, including your garage and basement. Also, try to throw out or give away any old furniture that is no longer of use. All of the discarded items can be given to Good Will, Salvation Army or even sold at a yard sale.

Although most sellers keep their homes clean and well-decorated, it can be difficult to convince a buyer of a home’s potential when clutter is noticeable. As brokers, it’s our responsibility to offer any tips that will expedite the sale and make the experience more enjoyable for the seller.

Once you’ve eliminated the unwanted items and furniture, begin the ‘renovation’ process. For non-storage spaces that could use a little more decor, consider adding a small bookshelf complemented with a cozy reading chair. Always be sure you’re filtering as much light into your property as possible. Open or replace curtains. For example, light from a window overlooking the backyard offers a room more color, a great view and the illusion of more space.

Always maximize the potential of existing decor; wash old curtains, re-stain old wood casings, anything that refreshes and emphasizes all the potential of the space and decor of the home.

Prospective buyers are often more drawn to homes with features that they don’t have, those with clutter-free closets, open sunny rooms, and cozy little corners. To ensure you’ve realized all of the above characteristics the last step should be to bring in a friend and observe their reaction. Make sure it’s an honest friend, who will offer suggestions as well as notice the improvements. Seeing your own home through someone else’s eyes is a great way to make a home optimally attractive and more sellable to prospective buyers.

Be diligent in your efforts and be sure the renovations improve the aesthetic appeal of the home. All the hard work will be worth the reward of a successful sale.

About The Author

W. Troy Swezey is the author of "HOW TO GIVE YOUR HOME A FACE-LIFT: THE SELLERS’ GUIDE TO A QUICK SELL.” As a Realtor at Century 21 Paul & Associates, he has helped many individuals with their real estate needs. Visit his web site to download his free e-book, "REAL ESTATE SECRETS EXPOSED." http://www.TroyIsMyRealtor.com” target=”_new or mail to: TroyC21 @ usa .net

How To Give Your Home A Face-Lift: The Sellers Guide To A Quick Sell

The first thing most of us think about when the time comes to take out a mortgage on a new home is the interest rate.

That’s both perfectly natural and very sensible. The rate of interest we pay can make an immense difference – a difference amounting to tens of thousands of dollars – in what the actual cost of our house ultimately turns out to be.

Still, interest rates are far from the only thing worth thinking about where mortgages are concerned. Other important variables need to be considered too. One is the question of whether to take a fixed interest rate of choose from among the many kinds of variable-rate mortgages that have been created over the years to meet the differing needs of different buyers.

Another – and a very important one – is the rather basic question of how long you want your mortgage to run. Even with fixed-rate mortgages, a broad spectrum of time spans is commonly available. In most cases the extremes are 15 years on the short side, 30 years on the long.

Some years ago, when a famous scientist was asked to name the most powerful force in the universe, he answered "the power of compound interest." This reply suggests that he was knowledgeable not only about the laws of nature but the principles of finance – about what happens to even a modest sum of money when it continues to accumulate interest year after year after year.

Even at a modest rate of interest, money in a savings account can double within ten years or less. The amount actually paid for a house with a $100,000 mortgage can turn out to be several hundred thousand dollars if the mortgage runs for 30 years.

When you opt for a mortgage of only 15 or 20 yeas, on the other hand, you chop off much of the growth in your total obligation. But to do that without reducing the initial size of your mortgage, you have to make a bigger payment every month. As in most of life’s major decisions, the stakes are high and the trade-offs require careful consideration. Above all, they require a careful examination of your resources, your aspirations, and your personal priorities.

Someone who’s willing to make near-term lifestyle sacrifices for the sake of long-term gains probably will prefer a shorter mortgage. If your motto is "eat, drink and be merry," on the other hand, the idea of squeezing extra money out of your budget for the sake of a bigger house payment won’t have much appeal.

If you’re attracted by a shorter, faster mortgage and think you might be able to handle one, ask your real estate agent to show you just how much long-term savings such an approach can make possible. Chances are you’ll be astonished by the size of the number.

Remember, though, that a 15-year or 20-year mortgage, by increasing your monthly obligations now and for years to come, can sharply reduce your flexibility.

One good approach is to take a 30-year mortgage but try to discipline yourself to make one extra monthly payment each year. If you can stick to such a regimen, ultimately it will yield the benefits of a 15-year mortgage. Meanwhile, you’ll be less strapped if changing circumstances reduce your ability to make monthly payments.

What’s really important is making yourself aware of how many different options you have and gathering detailed information about the ones that interest you most. A good real estate broker can be your key to all the information you could possibly need.

About The Author

W. Troy Swezey is the author of "HOW LONG YOUR MORTGAGE RUNS DETERMINES HOW MUCH YOU PAY.” As a Realtor at Century 21 Paul & Associates, he has helped many individuals with their real estate needs. Visit his web site to download his free e-book, "REAL ESTATE SECRETS EXPOSED." http://www.TroyIsMyRealtor.com” target=”_new or mail to: TroyC21 @ usa .net

How Long Your Mortgage Runs Determines How Much You Pay

When Should You Refinance ?

First, let me state that I’m not an attorney and the rest of this article is just based on my experiences so I’d advise you to contact John Hyre at www.realestatetaxlaw.com to get some solid, specific advice on your particular situation.

Also, this article is not going to discuss land trusts, which some of you may have just stumbled upon. A land trust is not an entity. Although it is frequently used in conjunction with entities, it is merely a paper device used to shield property ownership from the public.

When I first got going, the recurring wisdom was that an investor should use a C corp for cash deals. By cash deals, I mean anything that throws off cash quickly. It might be a wholesale flip, retail assignment, rehab and retail, option, etc.

There were numerous reasons why this was and is recommended. First, the C corp offers great liability protection and allows the owner to take advantage of fringe benefits, thus draining the corp of excess profits through legitimate expenses.

What I’ve learned the hard way is that this entity is not necessarily better for cash deals than other entities unless you’re doing serious cash numbers. By this I mean that the added benefits that a C corp offers are not available to you without a ton of cash coming in.

Stop and think about it for a moment. Are you going to generate enough cash to pay normal operating expenses like salary, marketing, funding, overhead, etc. and still have cash remaining to set up company programs for retirement, medical, insurance, education, etc.?

Typically, the answer’s going to be “No”, at least during the formative years. The primary downside to a C corp is that any losses, paper or otherwise, do not flow through to your personal tax return. You don’t get to use them anytime soon.

When I started, the secondary recommendation for cash deals was an S corp because it did offer many of the same benefits as a C corp, yet allowed the owner to flow losses through to the personal tax return. Once the business was thriving then converting to a C corp was not difficult.

When I went through this research again about a year ago, the majority of responses I received was that I should use a Limited Partnership (LP) for cash deals with a Limited Liability Company (LLC) as the General Partner (GP). I’ve also heard others suggest using an S corp as the GP. Other recommendations included using an LLC by itself as the cash deal entity.

What about entities for the keepers? By that I mean any property that hangs around for a while and doesn’t cash out soon. It could be a rental, lease option, or any property with owner financing, including subject to (Sub2). What I was told there was the same; that an LP with an LLC as the GP was currently best.

The point here is that if you do spend the necessary time to research this issue (and you should), you are likely to get each of these responses and possibly more.

My experience is that any of these suggested entities is better than starting with a C corp as I did. Factors that should play into your decision process include setup costs and any state-specific laws for each of the entities. For example, in my state, Texas, the LLC is much cheaper to set up than an LP. However, the LLC is also subject to franchise taxes on gross receipts over 150k and the LP is not.

Confused? I agree it’s not easy to know what the right course of action is. Do you need an entity or multiple entities established before you do some deals? Absolutely not. Why go to the trouble of setting up companies for a business that you may decide to discontinue? How do you know if you’ll even like real estate investing until after you’ve done some deals? Why do you need to set up serious asset protection until you have something worth protecting?

My recommendation would be to begin to research the various entities for your state as you continue to work your investing business. In my opinion there’s no need to make things complicated in the initial stages. If there’s no obvious negatives to an LLC in your state, then perhaps that would be a good start.

I would not rush out and set up a separate entity for cash deals and a separate entity for keepers as I did. I would not set up an LP as my first entity as it involves at least two partners, one limited partner and one general partner. Entities are not set in stone. With the proper guidance and counsel from good attorneys and CPA’s, you can make changes to your business plans as the business grows.

Again, this is not something you have to figure out when just starting. Find someone very knowledgeable about real estate investing, like John Hyre mentioned above, and begin to ask the tough questions so you can make informed decisions. As your business grows, your asset protection can grow with it.

Thanks for reading. Until next time, good investing.

(c) Copyright 2003, All Rights Reserved.

About The Author

Tim Randle is a full time real estate investor in Round Rock, Texas and can be reached through his web site at http://www.TexasRealEstateClub.com” target=”_new; info @ texasrealestateclub .com

How to Choose the Proper Entity for Your Business

When I first started getting active in creative real estate, my skill set at negotiating was very weak. I had done the telemarketing thing for American Express as a financial planner and had studied and learned a few techniques. On the surface one might think that would be a perfect tie-in to talking to sellers about their properties and their financial situation. I can promise you it wasn’t.

Yes, I did pick up asking general sales techniques like never asking close-ended (”yes” or “no” answers) questions. Also, it still works to ask multiple choice assumptive questions like “Would Tuesday at 6 p.m. or Thursday at 3 p.m. work better for you?”. The basics were not enough.

When I first began asking sellers what their loan balance was, I may have actually received a number for an answer 50% of the time. I had two major obstacles facing me.

First, my belief system was cock-eyed in that having come from a financial/accountant type background, I knew without a shadow of a doubt that no one would ever just give me their house and that only a complete fool would tell me the balance remaining on their loan.

Second, I didn’t have a clue as to the right way to ask and I can tell you from experience that it matters greatly.

The first obstacle, belief system, was easily overcome after I met my first truly motivated seller. Okay, beliefs systems are trashed and I must be the complete fool because that was way too easy.

The second obstacle, phraseology/negotiating, is no longer an obstacle, per se, but it is still a skill that I continually try to improve upon. The two key components, assuming you have already properly established good rapport, are timing and the phrases you use.

Here are some quick examples of how NOT to ask a seller what the loan balance is:

* What do you owe?

* Are you willing to sell it for what you owe?

* How much equity would you say you have?

* etc., etc.

Now, don’t get me wrong. If you use these phrases and similar ones enough times and with enough confidence, you will be able to get a numerical answer on occasion (as opposed to some of the not so friendly responses I received early on).

Contrast the above phrases to these:

* How much is left on the loan?

* So, the property’s not owned free and clear?

* etc., etc.

The first set of questions personalizes the issue and attaches the debt, and thus the problem, with the seller. The second set of questions creates detachment and since it’s no longer “their debt” or “their problem” or “what they owe”, it’s just simply a number and not a problem to share.

Since I first picked up on this one little tactic, I would estimate I get all the information I want on 99 out of 100 calls with almost no real effort. Granted, it does take time and practice to develop decent phone skills. The ability to naturally create rapport and flow with the call, yet still get the information you want will come with time. My point is that it’s important to begin testing and tracking different approaches. If you do this, you will notice some very interesting results.

Here’s another example when asking about whether or not the seller would consider a carryback (financing it for you). I’d suggest actually trying this one out just to verify the reality. If I ask a seller something like:

* Would you consider owner finance?

* Would you do a carryback?

* Would you carry paper on this?

* etc., etc.

What do you think my responses will be? Yes, I know that we like to use our fancy terminology once we’ve mastered it. I’m probably as guilty as anyone in that regard. However, what the above questions accomplish is forcing the seller into a corner. Either they have to admit they don’t understand, and thus appear foolish, or simply say “no”. Which do you think happens most often?

Compare the above questions with something like:

* Are you in a position where you could take payments?

* Would it be possible for me to make payments for a while and pay off your loan later?

These questions almost always lead to a “yes” or a “tell me more” type response. You’ll be amazed at the difference.

These are just two quick examples of how the phrases you choose can affect your results. Take a minute to consider how many questions you ask and how much information you attempt to extract from a seller in a single call. Knowing what to say and when to say it will improve your performance more than you can imagine.

I highly recommend picking up some books and/or taking some courses on sales and negotiating. Roger Dawson has great materials available on this web site… http://www.texasrealestateclub.com/courses.html#negotiating” target=”_new; info @ texasrealestateclub .com

(c) Copyright 2003, All Rights Reserved

Negotiating and Sales Skills Are Critical

I might upset some folks with this one, but that’s okay as I think it’s important to get some of my experiences into the light of day. If you fully believe the hype that you won’t have any landlording responsibilities by selling on a lease option, go ahead and stop here. Or perhaps you should read on as this article is specifically written for you.

Let’s review one of the common misconceptions that is thrown around by folks touting the wonders of selling properties on a lease option:

You won’t have any repairs or maintenance.

True, you can certainly have your documents state that the tenant/buyer (TBer) is responsible for repairs. In fact, I’ve seen numerous variations of this ranging from the TBer is responsible for all repairs to only those repairs falling within a certain price range. Some investors ask the seller to be responsible for repairs up to a certain amount and ask the TBer to be responsible for those over that amount. Insurance will theoretically cover major damages so that’s not an issue. And I know from several experiences that insurance will and does cover many repair expenses less than $10,000. So far, knock on wood, I haven’t had to test going above that amount.

So, what happens when your TBer moves in, sends you back your move-in condition form and two days later the A/C, heater, or whatever goes out? You’re either ponying up some money or you have one upset TBer. Yes, I know it’s wise to have them sign off on an inspection or an inspection waiver prior to move in, and if you’re not doing that, I recommend it. However, do you think that’s going to matter if the TBer just gave you the majority of their life savings and they’re looking at a large repair bill?

Yes, you can use some of their funds to purchase a home warranty and I also frequently do that. If the expense happens to be one that is actually covered under the policy on such a short time frame and not classified as a pre-existing condition, then you’re fine and the TBer can just pay the deductible. Wait a minute, didn’t you shell out a few hundred for the warranty? True, it came from the TBer’s funds, but that option consideration was supposed to be yours to keep, right?

Other recommendations on addressing the issue include asking the seller to be responsible for repairs for a certain time period and then passing that “guarantee” on to the TBer. Again, it may be one of those “sounds good in theory” type arguments. The few times I’ve gone that route I’ve not had to test it, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the seller is a bit upset if I had to call to ask for money after the fact. And what happens if your repair period from the seller is only 30 or 60 days and it takes you longer than that to find a decent TBer. Oops.

What I’ve found is that typicallly the TBer will agree, sometimes reluctantly, to cover half the expense. I present that solution in such a way that it does appear as if I’m breaking “company policy”, but since “I want them to be happy in their new home”, I’m willing to bend the rules some. It is definitely smart to push the TBer to get an inspection done prior to move-in as this not only comforts them, it protects you. Make sure you get a copy of it and have the TBer sign off on it. To be clear, I only make this offer for repairs that occur in the first 30 days. After that, they’re on their own or insurance will take care of it.

Let’s not forget the TBer who doesn’t call to let you know that something needs repair. You may have done such a convincing job explaining that it was their responsibility that the TBer chooses not to call. Since they don’t have the money to fix the water leak in the upstairs tub, they just let it continue. Now, we’ve got some mold issues and much more serious repair numbers. It’s critical in my opinion that the TBer call you if they have a significant repair, even if they’re able to pick up the tab. I want to know what’s going on in my properties.

So, to summarize, I think there are some important steps to take when you sell your properties on a lease option. Take what you feel is important and incorporate it into your business if you haven’t already done so.

1. Push the TBer to get an inspection done. If they don’t have the $200 or so to do this, ensure they sign off on an inspection waiver. It’s more difficult for them to come back to you demanding their option consideration and rent back due to needed repairs if they made this choice on paper and signed it.

2. Consider using part of the TBer’s funds to purchase a home warranty. Not only does it comfort their concern of potential repairs, it increases the likelihood that needed repairs will get done. It’s cheap insurance in my opinion.

3. Set up your standard operating procedure regarding repairs. Like all issues regarding properties with which you stay involved, it’s important to promote and maintain consistent, documented procedures. In other words, don’t have different repair policies for different properties or TBers. Choose the repair responsibility method or methods you think will work best and stick with them.

4. Another item not mentioned that is also company policy is that the TBer must have and maintain renter’s insurance. Policies can be purchased for very little funds and it protects their personal property. Typically, these policies will also have a liability component that provides an initial layer of protection before they get to your policy. This way, if some accident happens, like the tub leak above, that damages their property, they won’t be coming to you first for replacement.

Selling on lease options can be a profitable technique if done wisely. Just don’t go into it believing it doesn’t take any work and that the landlording headaches are completely removed. They aren’t.

Thanks for reading.

(c) Copyright 2003, All Rights Reserved.

About The Author

Tim Randle can be contacted through his web site at http://www.TexasRealEstateClub.com” target=”_new; info @ texasrealestateclub .com

Why Selling on Lease Options is Glorified Landlording

As you are making your cold calls on property, you will run into sellers that are having a hard time selling, however, the numbers just don’t work for you to take on the deal. Do you just say, “I can’t work with those numbers”.

Heck, no. In fact, I don’t even use that phrasing.

After I get all my information on the house, financing, why they are selling, and what their needs are; I know whether or not the deal will work. I always send a follow-up letter, and a brochure. I follow-up a couple of days later to be sure they got the information, and mention that I could consult with them and help them move the property quickly, usually in 30 days or less.

Remember, the time factor here. You are using consulting because the numbers don’t work. The seller, however, needs to move the property within a specific time frame, so you have an additional option and a very good solution for him.

If the seller is not time motivated, you will not get a consultation immediately. Consulting might work later on, but she/he is going to want to think about it. When I cold call on these, I follow-up with a brochure, my phone call that they received the information, and that I will get back to them or they can call me if the traditional methods don’t work for them. I always say to them, I just want them to know that there are other options for them to go with.

You have to give value in your consultations. If you don’t have some kind of written material for them, which I strongly suggest, you will have to sit down with them, and do a lot of hand holding. This also limits you to only working with individuals in your immediate area, and as we mention in our manuals and e-books, consulting on the web is a dream, and can add substantially to your cash flow.

You also need to have a reasonable price structure. I know some people believe in charging a bundle for consultations (many of these individuals only work in areas e.g. CA they can get away with this; I’d like to see them try this in let’s say Indiana, Kentucky, or some areas in the South); however keeping your pricing at a affordable level gets you more business, more referrals, and ultimately more money. Pricing is going to also be very dependent on the area you are working in.

I’d rather have five consultations per week than just one, because I then have five people that can refer me to their friends and colleagues.

What we do is offer several packages to sellers. The consultation is at a basic rate with 30, 60 and 90 day follow up periods. The price is commiserate with the follow-up periods.

So try consulting, it’s another income stream for you, that is also a win-win-win situation for you, the seller and the tenant/buyer.

Copyright 2003, DeFiore Enterprises.

About The Author

Interested in having your own successful, home based creative real estate investing business? Chuck and Sue have been helping folks start successful home based businesses for over 17 years, and we can help you too! To see how, visit http://www.homebusinesssolutions.com” how to” Home Business Solutions Digest, it’s like having your own personal coach: subscribeHBS @ homebusinesssolutions .com” target=”_new

coaches @ homebusinesssolutions .com

How Do I Bring Consulting Into My Lease Purchase Business

Recently I closed on the sale of two homes. They were located about a mile apart and had comparable market values. However, beyond these two similarities, the two deals were very different from each other. Let me discuss in more detail the similarities and differences of the two deals.

My business partner and I purchased both properties from families who were in preforeclosure. The leads for each property came from letters that I had mailed to families who had recently received Notices of Default. The one family responded to me within 24 hours of receiving my first letter. I met with them within two hours of receiving their phone call and signed a contract with them on the spot to purchase their home. The other family responded to me after receiving the fourth letter from me. After a couple of broken appointments and two meetings we signed a contract to buy their home. With each home we did a "kitchen table" type closing within a couple of days of signing the contract. Both homes were purchased "subject to" the existing financing remaining in place. The earnest money given for each home was one dollar.

First Deal

We began marketing the first house by advertising it in the newspaper at market value and putting signs in the neighborhood and nearby intersections. We had a verbal agreement with the seller that they would clear all of their belonging out of the house within two weeks. The house was very messy and dirty. When the sellers failed to make any progress clearing the house we went ahead with the marketing and reduced the asking price. Within two weeks we had only received a few phone calls from mostly non-interested prospects.

At this point we reduced the asking price further and changed our signs to notify the public that owner financing was available. At that point we started to get a larger number of phone calls from truly interested prospects. Our owner financed terms and the lower than market value asking price separated us from the hundreds of realtor represented homes that needed bank financing.

With the second home, purchased a month later than the first, we immediately marketed it with owner financing. When we purchased the home we stipulated in the contract that the seller had to vacate the property in two weeks or be charged a fee for failure to do so. The seller was agreeable and cooperative and moved quickly to remove their belongings from the house. The seller of the first house was still dragging their feet and the house was still a mess.

Shortly after changing the marketing of the first house, we received an offer from a highly interested buyer. This house was truly ideal for this family and we wanted to help them get into it. They offered to buy it with bank financing and we agreed to sell it to them. There was still enough time before the foreclosure auction to close the sale with bank financing.

I cautioned the buyer that he should seek a loan other than an FHA loan since we had not held title to the property long enough for FHA to approve a new loan. In case you didn’t know, FHA recently changed a rule that now requires a property to be on title at least 90 days before they will approve a new loan. So guess what the buyer did?

Right. His mortgage broker and his real estate agent steered him toward an FHA loan program. Luckily, the buyer qualified for a good FNMA program as well. So I stipulated in the contract that the buyer had to gain approval for the FHA program within 5 days or else drop the FHA program and proceed with the FNMA program. Both the broker and the agent needed education on this point, which I provided in writing, and four days later the broker notified me that the buyer would not be approved by FHA and that they were proceeding with the FNMA program.

The next obstacle we faced was the home inspection. The inspection resulted in asking for several hundred dollars worth of repairs that we agreed to do. The repairs took two weeks to complete. While repairs were ongoing we ordered a property appraisal. The appraisers in our area are backlogged eight weeks but we knew an appraiser who would perform an appraisal within a week for 150% of his normal fee. Of course we didn’t have the luxury of being able to wait eight weeks so we bought the expensive appraisal.

The next obstacle was to order a preliminary title search, which showed a clear title luckily. The previous owner did not have an as-built survey so we had to order an expensive set of survey documents from the county.

Now that the obstacles to closing were nearly erased and we were close to a hard closing date, we still had a problem with the previous seller. They had only moved a few things out of the house and the house was still well cluttered. They were getting around to moving out eventually but not fast enough to be out of the house before closing the sale. Their lack of cooperation and their inability to follow through with their verbal promises made it clear why they had neglected their home and let it go into foreclosure.

Since the utilities were turned off and the seller was no longer living in the home I had the legal right to declare their belongings as abandoned property and I notified them that I would move the items out for them. My partner and I spent a day boxing and bagging up the seller’s personal items, and grudgingly they picked the boxes and bags up the day before closing. Whew!

Second Deal

Now, on the other hand, events with the second property proceeded much more smoothly. We bought the home, found a buyer for it within eight days, and closed on the sale eight days later.

We decided to sell the second home on a land contract or wrap mortgage with the existing financing remaining in place. We also decided to stipulate that the home had to be refinanced within two years or it would be foreclosed back to us. We did this to protect the previous seller’s interest in the underlying financing. They didn’t want it hanging out there for a long period of time.

Our "owner finance" signage attracted several buyers quickly. We required a large enough down payment to "cure" the loan, that is, to pay off the existing arrearage and attorney fees. We found an eager buyer who had sufficient cash on hand and a good income, but without enough time in the area to have a high credit rating. He understood the concept of the wrap mortgage and the underlying financing and we negotiated a contract with him at Starbucks. He negotiated a lower sale price by offering a larger down payment. Basically we were able to immediately receive all of the "back end" profit that would have been paid to us in two year’s time when he refinanced. We received this up front in exchange for a lower sales price. It was a fair exchange for both parties.

He agreed to buy the home "as is" and to do some repairs himself. No home inspection was needed; no appraisal was needed; no repairs had to be made; no real estate agent needed to be paid; and no survey had to be ordered. The buyer paid all of the closing costs which were far less than he would have paid if he had used a real estate agent and a mortgage broker.We used a closing agent who is very familiar with transactions of this type, which she calls "unacknowledged wrap sales." Our closing agent has become a friend and has spoken at our local Real Estate Investment Club.

In summary, each of the two deals netted about the same profit, but it is obvious which deal one would prefer to do if given a choice. If I were Robert Kiyosaki I might call one deal my rich dad’s deal and the other my poor dad’s deal. We learned enough to make deals of the first type go more smoothly in the future but I’ll take deals of the second type every day of the week.

I hope all of your real estate investing deals proceed smoothly and quickly.

*****************************
Garry Gamber is a public school teacher and entrepreneur. He writes articles about real estate, health and nutrition, and internet dating services. He is the owner of http://www.anchorage-homes.com/ and http://www.thedatingadvisor.com/.

How I Became a Real Estate Investor

Most of us don’t talk about money, finances, credit, debt….Young people especially go into the real world blind about these issues. They have had it easy or difficult growing up financially. Some kids use their parents credit cards or are even issued one. Some don’t have anything above the necessities. Then some “EARN” an allowance and are taught to spend conservatively. I think all of us have a responsibility to steer them in the right direction.

It is necessary to establish credit. Choose, for example a reputable credit card company. Often this can be obtained through the credit union or bank where an account has been active. Carefully read all of the disclosure. Pay close attention to the interest, grace periods and penalties. Most importantly, spend the way you always have and absolutely no more. Charge one or two of the usual expenses and be sure to pay the bill on time. This creates the needed credit and good score to buy bigger things.

Credit is a good thing in some ways. But as we all know it is more often a problem. One problem is people lose control of spending. I think there’s something psychological that makes it easier to sign a piece of paper than to write a check or whip out the cash. One is your money, the other doesn’t seem to be. The worst part of being up to your eyeballs in debt is that it snowballs quickly and usually hopelessly. There are debt reduction programs and free consultation services and unfortunately bancruptcy. But it’s easier not to get there. Another problem is bad credit on the report that’s incorrect. Amazingly this happens very often and consumers aren’t usually aware of it until they apply for something. It pays to check about once a year. If something is in error it’s usually not difficult to get it corrected.

I had a young man (19) come to see me yesterday. He said he wanted to buy a house and no one would pay attention to him. What a sad statement. He has belonged to his credit union for years. He has rented a house for a year and paid the utilities. He’s a certified mechanic who took first place in the state. He has worked in the same field for several years. That’s more stability than I’ve seen in some forty year old people. John went to the credit union and spoke to someone in the mortgage department. I’m fairly confident it went well and I will find him a good property and a good deal because I know him and I’m proud of him. I think he was hesitant to talk to me because his mom and I are best friends. I wish the other people had treated him with the respect this young man deserves.

Suzie is a certified residential appraiser, licensed real estate broker and an expert author with twenty years experience in the business. Other professionals in the field have contributed as well. http://www.freewebs.com/realestatenews

Encouraging Debt

In many places you can buy a house and a contractor can put a lien on it within 90 days of construction or delivery of materials. For example if a contractor fails to pay a subcontractor he/she can place a lien against your real estate.

If you have windows installed or any kind of construction, repairs or improvements done to your residence or even commercial property you need to make sure you get the contractor to release the lien. If you don’t you could face shocking problems in the future.

A woman was going to nursing school and decided to sell her home and downsize. She was going to use the money to sustain her through a few more months. When they got ready to close, the title search revealed a mechanic’s lien recorded against the property. This held up the sale for six months and the mortgage company began foreclosure actions. Her husband had windows installed several years earlier and had since passed away. The woman didn’t have any idea where the receipts were. Everything worked out when a local television station got involved. The contractor’s company couldn’t find any records either so finally they agreed to release the lien and she was able to consummate the sale.

Suzie is a certified residential appraiser, licensed real estate broker and expert author. She has been in the industry for twenty years. Other professionals have contributed as well. http://www.freewebs.com/realestatenews

Mechanics Lien on Your House